Well I am finally getting around to presenting my Framing Tutorial it only took one year so I hope the information will make up for the delay.
I hope that you take this information and use what works for you and modify what doesn't this is the method I use, but I'm sure like everything there is more then one way.
Mounting Board (Acid Free Foam Core or Mat Board)
Types of Mounting Board
Sticky Board - Avoid at all costs as you will be unable to remove your fabric from board. It also contains chemicals that will harm fabric over time.
Pins - Attaches needlework to foam core board with stainless steal pins, pins remain in work OK as long as pins don't rust.
Linen Tape - Attaches needlework to mounting board with a two sided acid free linen tape
Lacing - Attaches needlework by lacing piece over the mounting board using quilting thread. This is the purist form as no foreign items are added to the needlework.
Preparing Needlework for Mounting
Wash needlework if fibers and material allow washing
Press, Place needlework right side down on fluffy white towel, to prevent crushing of stitches if using over dyed or non colorfast threads be sure to turn off steam.
Take to framer and decided on frame, matting (optional) and how much linen border will be showing.
How to Measure Needlework Piece
Measure the design area, outside stitches for both length and height.
Linen Border is the linen that lies between the design area and the frame. This is the linen you see when the piece is hanging on the wall.
- Border can be of equal width on all four sides.
- Border with the top and sides of equal width and the bottom has a larger width (usually art work is framed this way).
- This is all up to individual taste, but for a teaching example we will look at a 1/2 inch linen border showing on all four sides. Please note that there is a lip on the frame, which holds the glass and needlework in the frame. It is 1/4 inch wide so this has been added to the 1/2 inch border that will be showing.
Design Area 8 1/2 inches X 14 3/4 inches
Right Margin 3/4 inches
Left Margin 3/4 inches
Top Margin 3/4 inches
Bottom Margin 3/4 inches
Mounting 10 inches X 16 1/4 inches
- Have framer cut foam core to calculated size. Make sure to have the framer check the lip depth on the back of frame to see if glass, foam core and backing board will all fit into the frame. If the lip is shallow then lace onto a piece of acid free mat board.
Now time for modification
I had a ready made frame that I thought would work on my needlework
It measures 4 7/8 inches X 6 7/8 inches
Because this is the Mounting Board dimension I need to figure out what that leaves for linen margin on all sides of my piece.
Width X Length
Mounting Board 4 7/8 inches 6 7/8 inches
Design Area - 4 4/8 inches 6 1/8 inches
Total Linen Margin 3/8 inch X 6/8 inch
Divide by two 3/16 inch X 3/8 inch
Here I have cut my mat board to the 4 7/8 X 6 7/8 inch dimension place in frame to make sure that you measured and cut correctly.
On the front of your stitched piece measure out from design the amount of your linen margin
In my case 3/16 inch on each side and 3/8 on top and bottom. Place a pin at these spots.
Turn over stitched piece so front is facing down, center cut mat board between the pins.
Pin in place with one pin in the center of each side.
Working from the center and moving towards the corners, pin needlework every 1/4 inch. Repeat until all four sides are pined. When pinning follow along on thread of linen ground fabric to insure that the piece will be straight.
You may need to trim excess linen at this point should have 1 1/2 inches extra per side, but for a small piece may be less. The extra should not meet on the backside.
Miter the corners.
Turn needlework face down and fold in corners, pin in place. Finger press.
Now fold in each side and pin in place
Whip stitch the corners closed with quilting thread. You want the fold to be nice and neat, but your whip stitching will not show so you don't have to be to careful.
All corners done, remove the pins from the corners only.
Thread needle with quilting thread, leave attached to the spool (I place spool in a box or the frame so it does not roll off the table)
Begin Lacing top to bottom moving from the right to left hand side of work. Space each stitch approximately 1/4 inch apart. When the left had side is reached fasten thread securely. Moving from left to right pull each lacing taut (do not over do as it can put extra stress on fabric and bend the mat board). Cut the thread from the spool and re thread the needle and fasten the lacing securely.
Repeat the process from side to side.
I turn my work so I am always lacing top to bottom but I did not flip the photos before posting them.
Your needlework is now ready to frame.
Pop into frame
If using glass be sure to clean first on both sides and be careful not to cut yourself.
Place backing board in (I used foam core)
Hold in place with glazing points (they were at home during photo shoot so do not strain eyes trying to spot them in picture).
Cover back with brown paper.